WATCHES |
EVOLUTION OF THE WATCHIn today's world of smartphones and fitness trackers, the time is always at our fingertips. However, this instant access wasn't always a given. The 20th century saw the rise of wristwatches, popularised during World War I for their practicality. The quartz revolution of the 1970s brought affordable, accurate watches powered by batteries, while today’s smartwatches blend traditional craftsmanship with advanced technology, offering more than just timekeeping. Watches have evolved from simple tools of necessity to statements of style and innovation. |
|
|
COMPONENTS OF A WATCH
Aperture: A small window in the dial, which shows information such as the date or moon phase. Bezel: The metal ring around the crystal on the top of the watch. It holds the glass or crystal in place. Case: The container that protects the watch’s movement. Crown: A button on the exterior of the watch case used for setting the time and calendar. On mechanical watches, it’s also used to wind the mainspring. Crystal: Made of glass, synthetic Sapphire or plastic, the crystal is a transparent cover for the watch’s dial. Dial: The plate that displays the hours, minutes and seconds. Hand: Indicators that move around the dial, pointing to the hour, minute and second. Jewel: Small sapphires or rubies set into mechanical watch’s movements that reduce friction by acting as bearings for gears. | Lug: Also called “horns,” lugs are projections used for fastening the strap or bracelet to the case. Movement: The engine of a mechanical watch that keeps time and powers the watch’s functions. Pusher: Buttons on the outside of the case that control specific functions. They’re usually found on watches with a chronograph. Rotor: Attached to the movement, the rotor revolves to wind the mainspring and store power in automatic timepieces. Strap: A band of leather that straps the timepiece to the wrist. It must be non-metal to be called a strap. Metal versions are called “bracelets.” Subdial: A small dial positioned inside the main dial that displays additional information. |
|
TYPES OF MOVEMENTS
A watch movement, also known as a calibre, is the mechanism inside a watch that powers its functions. It is responsible for keeping time and driving the hands of the watch. The movement is often considered the heart of the watch, as it determines its accuracy, functionality, and overall craftsmanship. There are many different watch movements created by watch manufacturers using proprietary innovations and discoveries. Today's movements fall into one of the following categories:
Mechanical Requiring a high level of craftmanship, mechanical movements contain an intricate series of small components, which work together to power the watch. Generally speaking, the design hasn't changed much in centuries; that forms part of it's appeal. Modern engineering has led to more precise instruments, which increase precision. They use energy from a wound spring, instead of a battery. The spring stores the energy and transfers it through a series of gears and springs, driving the watch and powering the functions. | Quartz Coming onto the scene in the 1960s, powered by batteries that send an electrical current to a quartz crystal, these watches are easy to care for accurate and affordable. The tell-tale mark of a quartz movement is the crisp ticking of the second hand. In most cases, the battery only needs to be replaced every 18 months to two years, making quartz movement undeniably low-maintenance. | Automatic The sister of mechanical movement, automatic movement is also designed around a mainspring. But automatic movement doesn’t require daily winding, and that’s why automatic watches are also called “self-winding.” Back in the 1920s, inventor John Harwood tackled the problem of watches becoming crippled by dust and muck stuck in their winding systems. In 1931, Rolex built on Harwood’s discoveries and created a movement with a perpetual rotor system, which used the arm’s natural movements to power the timepiece. To this day, all of Rolex’s automatic watches use the 1931 breakthrough technology. |
Chronograph In layman’s terms, a chronograph is a stopwatch or timer, and a chronograph movement allows you to time something without interfering with the watch’s ability to deliver accurate time. Some chronographs can time up to 30 seconds while others can last for 12 hours. It’s easy to confuse the terms “chronograph” and “chronometer.” For simplicity’s sake, a chronograph is a timepiece with a stopwatch or timer, and a chronometer is a precise watch. | Chronometer A chronometer is a precise watch. Today, timeliness is important, but back in the 18th century, precision watches sometimes meant the difference between life and death for marine navigators. John Harrison, a Yorkshire watchmaker, designed a timepiece that could keep meticulous time even on a ship in the middle of the ocean. It remained accurate despite adverse temperatures, changes in air pressure, salt air corrosion, humidity and even the movements of a ship. Today’s chronometer watches are based on Harrison’s design. They are subjected to rigorous testing by the Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres (COSC) to earn chronometer certification. | Kinetic A kinetic movement uses oscillating weights that are powered by the watch wearer’s movements. The movements create a magnetic charge within the watch, and that charge is turned into electricity. Many newer kinetic watches can store energy for several months, keeping them accurate even when they’re not being worn. |
|
SOME THINGS TO CONSIDER WHEN PURCHASING A WATCH
Solid construction
Check the construction of the watch is solid. It may be surprising that some components are made of plastic and/or are of a hollow construction, which can reduce the life-span of the watch. This is mostly applicable to fashion styles.
Sapphire crystal or glass
The transparent cover over a watch's face is called a crystal. There are three many types:
- Acrylic (plexiglass): lightweight, inexpensive plastic material. Less prone to shattering but can scratch more easily.
- Mineral glass: Made form tempered glass, it is more resistant to scratched than acrylic but can still get damaged with significant impact. Mineral glass is a common choice in mid-range watches
- Sapphire crystal: Considered the most durable and scratch-resistant crystal is highly resistant to scratches and damage. It's used in higher-end watches and provides excellent clarity. Though tougher than the other two, sapphire is prone to shattering with strong impact.
Origin of movement
The origins of watch movements can be broadly traced to different regions, each known for distinct innovations and craftsmanship in horology:
- Swiss: Swiss watchmaking has been synonymous with precision and luxury for centuries, becoming a hub for high-quality mechanical movements. Swiss movements are renowned for their craftsmanship and durability, with brands like Patek Philippe, Rolex, and Omega leading the way. The term "Swiss Made" is now synonymous with excellence in watchmaking.
- Japanese: Japan entered the watchmaking scene later but made a significant impact, particularly in the 20th century with the introduction of quartz technology. Seiko pioneered the quartz movement in 1969, revolutionizing the industry with highly accurate, affordable watches. Japanese brands like Seiko and Citizen are known for producing reliable, efficient movements and have also made strides in mechanical and automatic watchmaking.
- German: Germany, particularly the Glashütte region, has a long history of watchmaking excellence. German movements are known for their technical innovations, is renowned for its engineering precision and a more understated, minimalist design aesthetic.
- American: In the 19th and early 20th centuries, the United States had a thriving watchmaking industry. Companies like Hamilton and Waltham produced highly accurate pocket watches and later wristwatches, contributing to innovations in mass production of movements. However, the American watch industry eventually declined, with Switzerland and Japan dominating the field today.
Each of these regions has contributed unique advancements to the development of watch movements, shaping the industry into what it is today.
Fashion or function
Entry level watches may be designed by actual watchmakers, whereas others are designed by fashion brands or designers. Sometimes those intended for fashion's sake may function poorly. Consider your watch's purpose when buying - is it mainly for fashion with a bit of time keeping or is its main purpose for function?
Real or fake
Determining a watch's authenticity can be difficult but not impossible. A few clues to help are:
- Check the model number: Fake model numbers are common among phoney luxury watches.
- Serial numbers: High-end luxury watches may be verified via serial numbers checked against online databases.
- Colour discrepancies: Luxury watchmakers are particular about their colouring, so familiarise yourself with your favourite models, don't trust off colour replicas.
- Incorrect movements: Replicas and fakes often have a difficult time mimicking the real movements of high-end watches. Incorrect movements can be a easy giveaway.
- Poor quality boxes and papers: Luxury watchmakers take such pride in their products, and this doesn't stop at the watch. Boxes and papers should match the quality of the timepiece itself. Paperwork folders should be made of genuine leather, and stitching should be precise.
Credit: Q Report